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Words & photos:
Aaron Rolph
@aaronrolph.
Featuring
@ed_explores
Supported by
Indiana Paddle & Surf Co.
Going wild – A hike and SUP adventure in Knoydart
Knoydart is a remote peninsula in the Scottish highlands and is considered by many to be the last true wilderness in the United Kingdom. Over recent centuries, it’s safe to say almost every corner of our densely populated islands has been altered in some way by agriculture, industry or human influence. Is there any real wilderness left in the UK? I headed to an area known as the ‘Rough Bounds’, which is notorious for its harsh terrain and remoteness, to find out.
The peninsula is sandwiched by two lochs, Loch Hourn and Loch Nevis poetically originating from the Gaelic names for heaven and hell, respectively. The interior is known for its largely pathless, rugged terrain and boasts several notable mountains, including no less than four Munros and six Corbetts.
Ed and I set aside a long weekend to see what this forgotten land had to offer, opting for a human-powered adventure. We agreed to test out some new lightweight touring paddleboards from Indiana, which could afford us the opportunity to travel by sea and water, not tying us exclusively to either. It seemed to me that to understand Knoydart’s remoteness and unique character, we’d need to navigate the dramatic sea lochs and brave big hikes deep into the hills.
A solid six-hour drive north of the Scottish border, we arrive at the edge of the charity-owned estate boundary at a typical late hour, grabbing a few hours of sleep in the van before paddling out at first light. Well into September, our hopes of missing midge season were soon dashed; however, the lack of wind also brings wonderful paddling conditions on flat water.
Loch Hourn
The peaks tower above us on all sides as we navigate the meandering Loch Hourn. Predictably, the serene paddling doesn’t last too long, and a headwind picks up just as the tides turn against us, paying the price for our slow start this morning. Paddleboards are thus far proving an excellent tool for navigating these remote waters but make no mistake, wind and tides require careful planning and can soon make things very difficult.
The wind and rain are pelting us in the face while we battle against a never-ending treadmill of moving water, but in true Scottish style, the clouds part, the sun comes out, and we enjoy lunch on what feels like a totally different day.
We started hiking into the hills by packing our boards and paddling kit onto our backs. The weight of our gear certainly doesn’t feel insignificant, but in time we get used to the loads and reach our camp spot on the high pass. Not entirely satisfied with this, though, we set up camp and headed out to bag the nearby and highest Munro in Knoydart, Ladhar Bheinn (1020m).
The approach is predictably rugged, pathless bog, and with night fast approaching is taking longer than we expected. It’s clear we’re not going to manage to scramble to the top of this technical summit and back all before dark. Having hit some bad luck in the hills lately, I was dead set on climbing this one; besides, it’s possible I may never find myself back here. The evening light is mesmerizing.
The golden sun gleams through the dappled cloud cover, vibrantly illuminating the mountains that soar right out of the sea. Pushing hard, I reach my summit and make it down as the last of the daylight dwindles – an evening never to be forgotten.
the valley to Inverie
The following day, we get an early start descending the valley to Inverie, the only settlement in Knoydart that is a boat ride or a 26km hike away from the nearest road out. The small outpost with little more than a row of housing sitting on the sea edge has a small pub that is as charming as it is remote. As much as we’d like to stick around for a third beer, we prep for the next phase of our multidiscipline adventure, which, if our estimations prove correct, should see us pushed down Loch Nevis with little effort at all.
I love it when a plan comes together. The blustery tailwind and favourable tides allow us to pop onto the small sails we’d brought onto our paddleboards, sitting back and letting nature do the work. The tide race sees us hurtling through some of the narrow channels at an unprecedented speed, soon finding Sourlies bothy, our destination for the evening, in sight.
As we approach, we spot a few visitors who have already checked into the basic shelter, a bit of a surprise given our remote location. It certainly feels like the weather is changing, and we’re pleased to get out of the elements for the evening, getting the fire on and calling it an early night.
When we wake, the air is thick, and the rain persists. The hills are shrouded with heavy fog, and our coastal path is mostly underwater at high tide, meaning we’re in and out of the sea, circumnavigating the rocky coastline. We were expecting a challenging hike today, and Knoydart delivers on its savage reputation.
a full-blown storm
The hiking is challenging, steep and boggy – sometimes going up to our thighs. After a mentally taxing and gruelling six hours of hiking, we’re relieved to get the weight off our backs and paddle on our boards to finish this wild loop. By now, conditions have deteriorated into a full-blown storm, and it’s one of those days where the only sensible place to be would be inside with a cup of tea in front of the fire.
But we were a long way from that dream, battling the elements in heavy wind and rain. Thankfully, the gales on Loch Quoich are due east, so the colossal waves it brings with it are at least pushing us in the right direction, albeit making for some very technically-demanding paddling.
Finally, pulling up in a muddy inlet which will, in turn, take us back to our starting point, it feels like we’ve been into battle but in the best of ways. To feel small under the mighty hand of nature is to feel alive and also to experience how inhospitable Knoydart can sometimes be. This trip was designed to see how wild the UK can get and to test SUP touring in the most extreme of environments.
After three days, we hiked, paddle boarded a total of 80km, paddled three lochs and even climbed its highest Munro. It’s incredible to see what you can do with a lightweight SUP and gritty determination. It proved to be the perfect way to explore this remote part of Scotland, which in my eyes, can undoubtedly be considered true wilderness.
Full Route:
https://fatmap.com/routeid/3056689/
knoydart-sup-hike-loop-inc-ladhar-bheinn?fmid=cp
British Adventure Collective:
www.britishadventurecollective.com