SUP ‘N’ sail

By Sarah Thornely

Photos:
Supjunkie &
Pistyll Productions

SUP ‘N’ sail

When you get a call on a Friday evening to be in Scotland to set sail at 17.00 on Sunday and to, “Just bring a sleeping bag,” you know you are in for a big adventure! 

When you get a call on a Friday evening to be in Scotland to set sail at 17.00 on Sunday and to, “Just bring a sleeping bag,” you know you are in for a big adventure!

It was great to meet our skipper Paul and crew Tony and the other guests, Ben, Jon and my cabin mate, Jo – three out of four from Barry so I felt pretty much at home as I spend so much time there! Also on board was Andy Kettlewell, ‘Chips’, who was there as an assistant Guide/photographer and drone flyer.

We set sail just after 17:00 after the safety briefing and guidance on using the ‘heads’ – toilets to you and me. The sun was still shining, and we had a superb three-hour trip up to Lochbuie, where we anchored close to Moy Castle. Our Guides prepped a delicious supper in the galley as the plan was to paddle that evening.

With some great teamwork, the boards, day bags, paddles and paddlers ended up where they should, on the water and paddling into the setting sun. Scotland is blessed with lighter evenings, so there was plenty of time to explore the still waters and Moy Castle; and two hours later, we paddled back to the boat at 22:30 whilst the sky and water turned incredibly pink – it was a truly stunning first paddle.

tides and weather

Our guides and skipper were constantly planning our trip around the tides and weather so we could get the best out of this adventure. The forecast for the next few days was pretty exceptional, so we headed off early the next morning for Staffa Island on the west coast of Mull, passing by Ross of Mull and through the Sound of Iona. I had never heard of this tiny, unique island, but it now has a special place in my heart. Conditions were sublime, and we anchored a little off the volcanic island. You notice the basalt columns and deep caves, the most famous being Fingal’s.

Our level of excitement was high as we paddled towards Fingal’s Cave, and Lloydy made sure it was safe for us all to enter. There was a gentle swell on the water, and we were soon beckoned in on our knees, as it gets relatively narrow after the entrance. The columns continue right through to the back of the cave, and the water is beautifully clean and clear – it feels like being in a cathedral with the height and dramatic rocks – an incredible experience. We paddled around the corner to the pyramidal rock islet of ‘Am Buachaille’, a pile of basalt columns which only appear at low tide. We sat to take in all the natural beauty around us before returning to Fingal’s Cave.

Puffins

We landed on a rough beach and found a young lady collecting rocks. She was working on Staffa with National Trust Scotland for six months, coming in daily by boat to keep an eye on the island and its wildlife. She had a wealth of knowledge and guided us up to see the puffins, which Staffa is also famous for. They see humans as non-threatening, so they were happy to be only metres away from us. They are smaller than I imagined but delightfully comical in how they bob about when walking. Puffins mate for life and live in 1-2-metre-long burrows under the soil at the top of the cliffs.

Some days are great, and others are just genuinely memorable, and this was definitely the latter. Few people have paddled at Staffa, let alone into Fingal’s Cave – we were blessed!

We then sailed up to the north of Ulva. I sought out my bunk and slept deeply for an hour; tiredness had caught up with me. We anchored in calm waters opposite Eas Fors Waterfall on Mull and headed out to explore after tea and cake, paddled through many small islands down to the Mull/Ulva ferry. On the way, I’m unsure if the seals spotted us first, as they slid quietly into the water and proceeded to follow us at a distance, constantly popping up and almost playing Grandmother’s footsteps with us. They are curious creatures and respond to sounds, so we respectfully kept our distance and let them do the following – another beautiful two-hour paddle in the bag. Once we were back on board, Lloydy and Chips spotted a bloom of Moon jellyfish, literally hundreds in a 10-metre area, a stunning sight for them and plenty of photo opportunities.

We were certainly getting our fair share of wildlife on this trip.
Another cracking supper was prepped, and more cake was consumed. The boat was fast becoming our home, and we were moving around it a little quicker and getting to know where everything should be. This is typically a ‘dry’ boat, but at the skipper’s discretion, a few beers were allowed in the evenings when we would go over the day’s adventures.

The next day we headed off to Calgary Beach, a charming white sandy bay with turquoise waters. Another remarkable day and we had finally managed to get one sail up with a bit of wind pushing us towards the bay. On the sail there, we spotted two sea eagles high up on the craggy cliffs they love, together with a herd of deer and copious jellyfish.

A gentle paddle at the bay with some great photo and drone opportunities for Chips followed by Isle of Mull ice cream at the little beach shop – it’s on the tourist destination list, so for the first time, we saw other people. We had been so remote for the last few days, tucked into the peace and quiet of secluded coves.

shorts and t-shirts

Next stop, Tobermory – it was so hot on deck that day that Jo and I took the opportunity for a little sunbathing and cat-napping. The famous capital of Mull is delightful with a row of coloured cottages on the harbour side and many boats in the harbour. Once we had found our berth, we paddled away from the harbour to explore. Our wetsuits and cags were replaced with shorts and t-shirts as the weather was still kind to us. The scenery in this part of the world is truly spectacular; photos don’t often do it justice, so you have to pop those images directly into your memory.

That evening we went shower-hunting, a joy after a few days without and then a meal at the local pub – it felt quite strange to be on dry land with plenty of space to move around. In the morning, Jo and I searched for the best coffee in Tobermory – the boat was in no rush to leave today, so it was nice to mooch about the village.

We knew the weather was on the turn, and our skipper took us to the beautiful and sheltered Loch na Droma Buidhe, where we went for a more challenging paddle. The wind was getting up for the first time, so it was good to get some expert guidance on upwinding, downwinding and skills to give us maximum fun whilst keeping us safe. Halfway through our paddle, the weather completely changed, the wind dropped, and the sun came out – another stunning day’s paddle, and with our lunches packed, we could stay on the water longer.

Although it never felt rushed, our whistle stop tour took us to Carna. Once there, we had another beautifully sunny paddle, where Chips and I spotted a white-tailed Sea Eagle far up in the sky – sea urchins, starfish, anemones and many more seals. So much to see, and the wind was kind to us again, completely changing direction to give us a tailwind back instead of the predicted headwind. A cracking meal was ready for us when we got back, prepped by the Skipper and Tony, and whilst we played Top Trumps up on the deck, an incredible sunset kept us company until we hit our bunks at midnight.

grey skies and a storm

Thursday morning, the weather broke – grey skies and a storm were coming our way. Our guides were doing everything they could to ensure we had our regular paddles, and options were Loch Aline or Loch Spelve, but instead, we made our longest sail to the north of Oban and moored on the southern end of Ardmucknish Bay near Dunstaffnage Castle. The plan was to visit the castle and then paddle around the headlands and possibly into Oban with the boat meeting us there. Whilst exploring the castle, the boat radioed in to let us know that just around the first headland, there were squalls and wind that would make it too dangerous for us – so back they came and collected us but not before we had time for an impromptu game of skimming stones on the beach! Naturally, we were disappointed not to have paddled, but our safety was paramount.

There was a massive storm coming in for Friday, which should have been our last day, so we and many other boats headed to the safety of Oban harbour on Thursday evening, where we would sit it out overnight and check the weather in the morning. We couldn’t resist a trip into town to have a meal and a drink or two in a tiny, old pub right on the harbour, full of other salty types and live music – it was tightly packed in there and great fun.

Goodbyes

Friday morning dawned with strong gusts, which meant any more paddling was definitely off the cards – we’d been fortunate to have one of the best weeks weather-wise in and around the stunning Isle of Mull. Boards were deflated, kit packed, and goodbyes made to our fabulous Skipper Paul and crewman Tony – they had looked after us well, and the boat was just a beautiful craft to live on for the week. We had paddled almost 20 hours in five days, consistent time on the water and for the newer paddlers amongst us, it was a great way to learn new skills.

Having never sailed, I would definitely make this trip again. It’s a different experience, paddling twice a day with sailing in-between remote and beautiful waters. The other guests were easygoing; my roommate Jo and I became close, quite literally, in the small but very liveable cabin with loads of storage. If you needed peace and quiet, that was achievable, and you certainly did not feel the need to be with each other all of the time. Food was hearty and plentiful, and lots of cake which seems to be standard fare for paddleboarders.

The memories of this trip will be with me forever, from the Puffins on the wondrous island of Staffa to the teamwork of hoisting the sail and the camaraderie between us all. I hope you enjoy the team’s memories of our trip.

Tony: “What a week! We were blessed with amazing weather, spectacular scenery and quality time on the water with like-minded people, enjoying the peacefulness and wonderful sights.”

Jon: “One of the most memorable aspects of the adventure for me was that at times, whilst on the water, it appeared that we were the only people for literally miles around. We explored beautiful lochs and waterways with crystal clear water, against a backdrop of dynamic and spectacular landscapes.”

Ben: “Wow, what a week; I went to get more sailing under the belt with only a few hours’ experience on a SUP. Fabulous to have been back on a sailing yacht, but the SUP freedom feeling is just amazing, especially with beautiful Scotland as the backdrop.” 

Skipper Paul: “It has been my pleasure to have your company this week; thank you for all your efforts – it’s been awesome. Fair winds to you all.”

Jo: “I loved every minute of this trip. I booked it on my own, not knowing anyone at the time of booking, looking for adventure and something out of the ordinary. The whole experience – sleeping on the boat, getting stuck in with sailing and boat life and meeting new people- is part of the adventure.

“The views, the sunsets, the wildlife, the sense of being the only people around – unbelievable. From sunny days with still waters to more choppy days chasing the wind, from seals under us to eagles above us, the whole thing was breathtaking. Waking up on the boat in the middle of nowhere to paddle to a beach for ice cream, paddling into caves inaccessible to most people, having seals follow us as we paddled around a harbour, and sitting within touching distance of puffins as they came into land. I am proud of what I achieved personally.”

Shout outs

Big thanks must go to the Water Skills Academy for putting this trip together and ensuring that their guides truly are some of the best people to give you unique and memorable times on the water. I agree with Lloydy; this was my best SUP experience in over ten years.